/* Ayni C · article-specific design. Shared C styles, header and footer are preserved. */
.ayni-article{--article-measure:760px}.article-page{overflow:clip}.reading-progress{position:fixed;top:99px;left:0;width:100%;height:2px;background:transparent;z-index:42}.reading-progress span{display:block;height:100%;width:100%;background:#7a8069;transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;transition:transform .08s linear}.article-breadcrumb{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:24px;padding:27px 0;color:var(--muted);font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.025em}.article-breadcrumb ol{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin:0;padding:0}.article-breadcrumb li:not(:last-child):after{content:'/';margin-left:12px;color:#a4a498}.article-breadcrumb a:hover{color:var(--ink)}.article-back{display:flex;gap:24px;align-items:center}.article-heading{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 260px;align-items:end;gap:60px;padding:55px 0 66px}.article-heading .eyebrow{margin-bottom:30px}.article-heading h1{font-size:clamp(58px,6.8vw,112px);line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.055em}.article-heading h1 em{display:inline}.article-heading-aside{padding-bottom:4px}.article-line{display:block;width:38px;height:1px;background:#8b8b7d;margin-bottom:23px}.article-heading-aside>p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:27px;line-height:1.22;letter-spacing:-.025em}.article-meta{display:flex;gap:15px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:34px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--muted)}.article-meta>span+span{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:15px}.article-hero{margin:0 0 85px}.article-hero>img{width:100%;height:clamp(300px,36vw,540px);object-fit:cover;object-position:center 55%}.article-hero figcaption{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;margin-top:13px;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.article-hero figcaption span+span{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.12em}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:210px minmax(0,var(--article-measure));gap:clamp(48px,8vw,128px);justify-content:center;align-items:start}.article-sidebar{height:100%;padding-top:4px}.article-sidebar-inner{position:sticky;top:142px}.article-sidebar .eyebrow{margin-bottom:27px;font-size:9px}.article-sidebar nav{display:grid;gap:2px}.article-sidebar nav a{display:flex;gap:13px;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.45}.article-sidebar nav a span{font-size:8px;padding-top:3px;color:#919186;letter-spacing:.04em}.article-sidebar nav a[aria-current=true]{color:var(--ink)}.article-sidebar nav a[aria-current=true] span{color:var(--ink)}.article-sidebar nav a:hover{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.sidebar-note{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:32px;padding-top:27px}.sidebar-star{font-size:25px;font-family:Georgia,serif}.sidebar-note p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-.02em;line-height:1.16;margin-top:12px}.sidebar-note>a{display:inline-flex;gap:28px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:10px;margin-top:20px;padding-bottom:6px}.article-body{min-width:0}.article-section{scroll-margin-top:135px;margin-bottom:78px}.article-section .eyebrow{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.13em;margin-bottom:21px}.article-section h2{font-size:clamp(40px,4.3vw,66px);line-height:1.04;letter-spacing:-.045em;margin-bottom:26px}.article-prose{font-size:16px;line-height:1.95;color:#4b4e45;max-width:65ch}.article-prose p+p{margin-top:20px}.article-intro{padding:3px 0 65px}.quick-answer{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:24px 0 29px;margin-bottom:32px}.quick-answer-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:start;gap:20px;margin-bottom:20px}.quick-answer-top .eyebrow{margin:0}.quick-answer-label{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:18px;font-style:italic;color:var(--muted);line-height:1}.quick-answer-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:112px 1fr;gap:33px}.answer-number{font:116px/.88 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.07em;padding-top:7px}.answer-number span{display:block;font:10px/1.6 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:12px 0 0 8px}.quick-answer h2{font-size:35px;letter-spacing:-.035em;line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:13px}.quick-answer-grid p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8;color:#4b4e45}.scope-note{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.7;border-top:1px solid #deddd3;padding-top:18px;margin-top:25px}.night-comparison{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr));margin:37px 0 25px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.night-card{position:relative;padding:30px 19px 26px;border-right:1px solid var(--line)}.night-card:first-child{padding-left:0}.night-card:last-child{border-right:0;padding-right:0}.night-recommended{background:#eaece2}.night-card-note{position:absolute;top:12px;left:19px;font-size:6px;letter-spacing:.12em}.night-number{display:block;font:76px/1 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.05em}.night-number>span{font-size:38px;vertical-align:top;padding-left:2px}.night-card h3{font:10px/1.2 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:4px 0 24px}.night-key{font-size:11px;margin-bottom:9px}.night-card>p:last-child{font-size:11px;line-height:1.75;color:var(--muted)}.altitude-note{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:flex-start;color:var(--muted)}.altitude-note>span{border:1px solid #9b9d92;border-radius:50%;font:italic 13px/17px Georgia,serif;width:18px;height:18px;text-align:center;flex-shrink:0;margin-top:2px}.altitude-note p{font-size:10px;line-height:1.8}.altitude-note a,.article-prose a,.article-sources a,.travel-checklist a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.itinerary-section{padding:35px 34px 28px;background:#eeeee6;border:1px solid #dedfd3}.itinerary-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;align-items:end}.itinerary-heading h2{font-size:52px;margin-bottom:0}.itinerary-heading>p{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);padding-bottom:4px}.night-tabs{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:0;border:1px solid #bfc3b5;margin:30px 0 27px}.night-tabs button{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.03em;padding:14px 6px;border-right:1px solid #bfc3b5;transition:background .2s}.night-tabs button:last-child{border-right:0}.night-tabs button[aria-selected=true]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}.night-tabs button:hover:not([aria-selected=true]){background:#e1e4d7}.itinerary-status{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin:22px 0 26px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.12em}.itinerary-status span+span{text-transform:none;letter-spacing:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:10px}.itinerary-timeline{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.itinerary-timeline li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:68px minmax(0,1fr);gap:18px;padding:0 0 28px;position:relative}.timeline-day{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.12em;padding-top:4px}.itinerary-timeline li>div{border-left:1px solid #bfc3b5;padding:0 0 0 24px;position:relative}.itinerary-timeline li>div:before{content:'';position:absolute;top:5px;left:-4px;width:7px;height:7px;border-radius:50%;background:#8a907d;box-shadow:0 0 0 4px #eeeee6}.itinerary-timeline h3{font-size:28px;line-height:1.15;letter-spacing:-.025em;margin-bottom:10px}.itinerary-timeline p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted)}.timeline-night{display:inline-flex;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.05em;margin-top:12px;color:#686d5b}.timeline-onward{color:var(--ink)}.itinerary-timeline li:last-child{padding-bottom:0}.itinerary-disclaimer{font-size:9px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);border-top:1px solid #d3d5c9;margin-top:29px;padding-top:15px}.article-pause-photo{margin:0 0 77px}.article-pause-photo img{width:100%;height:350px;object-fit:cover;object-position:center}.article-pause-photo figcaption{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:12px;line-height:1.7}.arrival-notes{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px;margin:31px 0}.arrival-notes>div{padding-top:20px;border-top:1px solid #b8baac}.arrival-notes span{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.12em}.arrival-notes p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);margin-top:13px}.travel-checklist{margin-top:28px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.travel-checklist label{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;gap:18px;padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);cursor:pointer}.travel-checklist input{width:18px;height:18px;margin:4px 0 0;accent-color:var(--ink);flex-shrink:0;cursor:pointer}.travel-checklist input:focus-visible{outline:2px solid #aa6d1a;outline-offset:5px}.travel-checklist strong{font-size:14px;font-weight:400}.travel-checklist small{display:block;font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);margin-top:3px}.travel-checklist input:checked+span strong{color:#777c6d;text-decoration:line-through;text-decoration-thickness:1px}.checklist-status{font-size:9px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:12px}.prepare-section .line-link{font-size:11px;margin-top:15px}.article-faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.article-faq details:first-of-type{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.article-faq summary{display:flex;list-style:none;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;padding:21px 0;font-size:14px;line-height:1.65;cursor:pointer}.article-faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.article-faq summary>span{font-size:22px;font-family:var(--serif);line-height:1;flex-shrink:0;transition:transform 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solid var(--line);margin-top:32px;padding-top:22px;font-size:10px}.article-related{padding:110px 0 105px;margin-top:80px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.related-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:30px;margin-bottom:44px}.related-heading .eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:22px}.related-heading h2{font-size:70px;line-height:1;letter-spacing:-.045em}.related-heading .line-link{font-size:10px}.article-related-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:33px}.related-photo{position:relative;overflow:hidden}.related-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.5;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .5s}.related-photo>span{position:absolute;right:14px;bottom:14px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;color:var(--ink);background:var(--paper);width:34px;height:34px;border-radius:50%;font-size:18px}.related-story:hover .related-photo img{transform:scale(1.035)}.related-story .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin:22px 0 12px}.related-story 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@media(min-width:1600px){.article-layout{grid-template-columns:210px minmax(0,820px)}}
@media(max-width:1100px){.article-heading{grid-template-columns:1fr 220px;gap:30px}.article-heading h1{font-size:76px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:170px minmax(0,1fr);gap:45px}.article-sidebar nav a{font-size:10px}.sidebar-note p{font-size:21px}.night-card{padding-inline:13px}.night-card-note{left:13px;font-size:5px}.night-number{font-size:64px}.itinerary-heading h2{font-size:43px}.itinerary-heading>p{max-width:165px}.article-stay>div{padding:32px 26px}.article-stay h2{font-size:44px}.related-story h3{font-size:32px}}
@media(max-width:900px){.article-heading{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px;padding-top:35px}.article-heading h1{font-size:clamp(55px,8.7vw,80px)}.article-heading-aside{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.article-line{display:none}.article-heading-aside>p{font-size:22px}.article-meta{margin:0;gap:12px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,760px);gap:0}.article-sidebar{display:none}.article-mobile-toc{display:block;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:0 0 35px;font-size:11px}.article-mobile-toc summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:17px 0}.article-mobile-toc summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.article-mobile-toc summary span{font-size:20px;line-height:1}.article-mobile-toc[open] summary span{transform:rotate(45deg)}.article-mobile-toc nav{padding:0 0 20px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:13px}.article-mobile-toc nav a{display:flex;gap:10px;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.article-mobile-toc nav span{font-size:8px;padding-top:2px}.article-hero{margin-bottom:40px}.article-section h2{font-size:54px}.quick-answer h2{font-size:36px}.itinerary-heading h2{font-size:48px}.night-card{padding-inline:20px}.night-card-note{font-size:6px;left:20px}.night-number{font-size:76px}.related-heading h2{font-size:58px}.article-related-grid{gap:22px}.related-story h3{font-size:30px}.article-related{padding-block:75px;margin-top:65px}}
@media(max-width:650px){.ayni-article{padding-bottom:0}.article-breadcrumb{font-size:8px;padding:20px 0;gap:10px}.article-breadcrumb ol{gap:8px}.article-breadcrumb li:not(:last-child):after{margin-left:8px}.article-back{display:none}.article-heading{padding:28px 0 35px;gap:25px}.article-heading .eyebrow{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.12em;margin-bottom:22px}.article-heading h1{font-size:clamp(47px,10.6vw,66px);line-height:1.02;letter-spacing:-.055em}.article-heading-aside{align-items:end;gap:20px}.article-heading-aside>p{font-size:20px;line-height:1.22}.article-meta{flex-direction:column;gap:4px;font-size:6px;flex-shrink:0;padding-bottom:2px}.article-meta>span+span{padding:0;border:0}.article-hero>img{height:270px;object-position:53% center}.article-hero figcaption{font-size:8px;margin-top:9px}.article-hero figcaption span+span{display:none}.article-section{margin-bottom:58px;scroll-margin-top:95px}.article-section h2{font-size:42px;line-height:1.06;margin-bottom:21px}.article-section .eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:18px}.quick-answer{padding:20px 0 23px;margin-bottom:26px}.quick-answer-top{display:block;margin-bottom:25px}.quick-answer-top .eyebrow{margin-bottom:0}.quick-answer-label{display:none}.quick-answer-grid{grid-template-columns:65px minmax(0,1fr);gap:19px}.answer-number{font-size:88px;line-height:.88;padding-top:2px}.answer-number span{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.12em;margin-left:3px;margin-top:9px}.quick-answer h2{font-size:28px;line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:11px}.quick-answer-grid p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.85}.scope-note{font-size:9px;padding-top:16px;margin-top:22px}.article-prose{font-size:14px;line-height:1.9}.article-prose p+p{margin-top:18px}.article-intro{padding-bottom:48px}.night-comparison{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;margin-top:28px}.night-card{padding:28px 19px 24px!important;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.night-card:nth-child(2){border-right:0}.night-card:nth-child(n+3){border-bottom:0}.night-card:first-child,.night-card:nth-child(3){padding-left:0!important}.night-card-note{top:12px;left:19px;font-size:6px}.night-number{font-size:72px}.night-card h3{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:18px}.night-key{font-size:11px}.night-card>p:last-child{font-size:11px}.altitude-note p{font-size:9px;line-height:1.9}.itinerary-section{margin-inline:-12px;padding:27px 23px 24px}.itinerary-heading{display:block}.itinerary-heading h2{font-size:42px;margin-bottom:17px}.itinerary-heading>p{max-width:none;font-size:11px;line-height:1.8}.itinerary-heading>p br{display:none}.night-tabs{margin:22px 0;padding:0}.night-tabs button{font-size:9px;padding:13px 4px}.itinerary-status{gap:10px;margin:20px 0 25px;font-size:7px}.itinerary-status span+span{font-size:9px}.itinerary-timeline li{grid-template-columns:44px minmax(0,1fr);gap:10px;padding-bottom:26px}.timeline-day{font-size:7px;padding-top:5px}.itinerary-timeline li>div{padding-left:17px}.itinerary-timeline h3{font-size:25px;line-height:1.15;margin-bottom:10px}.itinerary-timeline p{font-size:11px;line-height:1.9}.timeline-night{font-size:7px;margin-top:10px}.itinerary-disclaimer{font-size:8px}.article-pause-photo{margin-bottom:56px}.article-pause-photo img{height:260px}.article-pause-photo figcaption{font-size:9px}.arrival-notes{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px;margin-block:26px}.arrival-notes>div{padding-top:15px}.arrival-notes p{font-size:12px;margin-top:10px}.travel-checklist label{gap:14px;padding:18px 0}.travel-checklist strong{font-size:12px}.travel-checklist small{font-size:10px}.travel-checklist input{width:17px;height:17px}.prepare-section .line-link{font-size:10px;gap:25px}.article-faq summary{font-size:12px;gap:20px;padding:20px 0}.article-faq details>div{font-size:12px;padding-right:5px}.article-stay{grid-template-columns:1fr;min-height:0;margin-inline:-12px}.article-stay>img{height:260px;object-position:center 53%}.article-stay>div{padding:30px 25px}.article-stay h2{font-size:48px}.article-stay p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:12px}.article-stay .line-link{font-size:11px}.article-sources{font-size:9px}.article-end{font-size:9px;gap:15px}.article-related{padding:60px 0;margin-top:56px}.related-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:30px}.related-heading h2{font-size:49px}.related-heading .line-link{margin-top:19px}.article-related-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:37px}.related-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.55}.related-story .eyebrow{margin-top:19px}.related-story h3{font-size:37px}.related-story>p:last-child{font-size:11px}.related-note{font-size:8px;line-height:1.9}.reading-progress{top:75px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.reading-progress span,.related-photo img{transition:none}}
@media print{.header,.menu-panel,.footer,.article-sidebar,.article-mobile-toc,.article-related,.article-end,.reading-progress,.night-tabs,.skip-link{display:none!important}.article-layout{display:block}.article-heading{padding:10px 0 25px}.article-heading h1{font-size:46px}.article-hero{margin-bottom:30px}.article-hero>img{height:240px}.article-section{break-inside:avoid;margin-bottom:30px}.article-section h2{font-size:32px}.wrap{width:100%}.article-prose{font-size:11px}.article-page{overflow:visible}}